City of the Week: Catania, Sicily

"The colour of the town is black (...) black is the lava stone which the houses are made of, so that the old palazzos and the convents look as if they were bunkers. Houses made with the flesh of Mongibello, and so he looks at them from afar like property that is legitimately his, left to the people down there only in life tenancy."
-Writer Rodolfo De Mattei, on the city of Catania

This week we take a look at Catania, an ancient college town at the foot of a fiery mountain, locked in time somewhere in the late 17th century, when Europe's most active volcano erupted for 122 straight days. Sicily's second largest city is a gem worthy of a base to explore eastern Sicily, not only for its general quirkiness, but its central location to some of the most intriguing, breath-taking and untarnished historical sites in western Europe. Italy is still very much alive and well and affordable in Eastern Sicily.

Hop on the bus or rent a car and drive in any direction out of Catania and you'll quickly find yourself either at the beach, surrounded by lemon groves, or at the peak of an active volcano, where, three months out of the year, you can ski. Continue a bit farther and you're likely to stumble across history worthy of Odysseus and the Cyclops, a tiny town adorned in eye-popping tile, a hillside home offering fresh ricotta cheese, a long-forgotten villa buried in rubble until only recently.

This week, we'll explore the best day trips from the city, the unique and fresh food (and candy!) of the region, the magic and monstrosity of Mount Etna, the hidden stories behind the ampitheaters and ruins, where to stay and where to play. Stay tuned!