What to Expect: Rome

Before dedicating this Friday topic to our usual restaurant tips, we thought we’d offer up the titillating truth about Rome first, so you’re not surprised. After all, if ever a gal was to have a dangerous love-hate relationship with a city, it would be with Roma.

The traffic in Rome literally stinks with overpopulated, exhaust -intensive buses and vespas zipping through winding rows of jam-packed cars, regardless of traffic violations or pedestrians. And heaven forbid you get sick at 1:00 PM, because the farmacia does not re-open until 3:00 PM. You can also forget about processing paperwork, be it your Visa, passport, plane ticket, or perhaps even a receipt from McDonald’s (yes, we already know Americans shamelessly love to visit McDonald’s during their ten tiny days abroad).

“Working just enough so someone notices you working at all” should be the motto, not "When in Rome," as the polizia proudly directs traffic with their right hand and smokes a cigarette with their left.

Additionally, in various parts of Italy, and especially in Rome, you mostly get Italian food, so don’t expect to find burger joints, the Outback Steakhouse or Vietnamese restaurants on every corner. Fortunately, today there's more “stranieri” restaurants popping up, so we'd like to recommend a few. If you’re in the mood for Asian, we like, Ci Lin (Ponte dell’olio 6, around the corner from Santa Maria in Trastevere). For Mexican, head to Cantina Mexicana (La Charreada, Piazza dei Quiriti 4), for Indian, try Surya Mahal (Via di Ponte Sisto 67). And, while you can go just about anywhere to find excellent Italian cuisine, for dinner, we love Taverna Trilussa in Piazza Trilussa (Via del Politeama 23; try the ravioli mimosa).

Keep in mind that like the farmacia, and chaotic traffic, finding food in Italy is difficult during certain times of the day (dinner typically begins at 8:30 PM or 9:00 PM). But, if you can get over the inconveniences of the chaotic city, then I promise you’ll find yourself having the most fabulous affair with Roma.

Rome on Foot

The Italians call it, piedi a piedi, literally meaning foot-by-foot. To begin your piedi a piedi, consider romancing the city where the Tiber River meets the Vatican. First, head to the Vatican Museums, Raphael Room, and Geographical Maps Gallery, finishing your tour with a bang at the Sistine Chapel. Next, stroll over to St. Peter’s Basilica, where you’ll find Michelangelo’s Pieta. Your stroll through the basilica will take you to Bernini’s Baldecchino della Confessione –where Peter’s bones supposedly rest below. And, for spectacular views of the city you can take the 300-some stairs to the top of St. Peter’s Basilica, known as Michelangelo’s dome (don’t worry, there’s also an elevator for grandma).

Next, you can choose to check out Castel Sant’Angelo or head south into the neighborhood of Trastevere, where Santa Maria in Trastevere lies, enjoying lunch at Il Vicolo or Toni’s on Vicolo Del Cinque afterward. Snobby locals tend to regard Trastevere as the real neighborhood of the Romans, so expect to use your Italian phrasebook a bit more in this area. Afterward, cross the Tiber River at the Ponte Sisto, into Campo de’ Fiori. Note: every weekday morning until 1:00 PM there’s a great outdoor market here, with fresh fish, vegetables, as well as household goods, clothing, purses, etc…

From Campo de’Fiori, you can cross Vittorio Emanuele, and head into Piazza Navona for views of Bernini’s famous baroque fountains. Expect street performers! From here, you can head east onto Via del Corso, where Piazza Venezia, the Colosseum, and the Roman Forum lie (Capitoline Hill), or head west to check out the Pantheon. Either way, Via del Corso runs in between both routes, so afterward, head north on Via del Corso to hit the Trevi Fountain, Piazza de Spagna, and Via dei Condotti.

See you on Friday for more tips for your Roman holiday!

City of the Week: Rome, Italy

Since our very own Araceli Cardenas-Bon scooped the Angels and Demons Premiere in Rome earlier this month, we thought it appropriate to make Rome our next city of the week. For those of you entranced with the Dan Brown movie, or planning a vacation to the eternal city, you’ll need a generic history lesson first.

The capital of Italy and home to the smallest country in the world (the Vatican), Rome holds one of the most unique historic centers, making the city an UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s over 2000 years old, with Greek, Etruscan, and Gaul origins, and once governed the Middle East and Northern Africa during its’ “Empire” status. Rome also lived through “paganism,” which was brutally killed off in the Middle Ages, only to be seized by Christianity and eventually an aristocratic papacy—leaving behind the beautiful Pantheon. Additionally, due to its’ southern location in Europe and the Mediterranean, its art, architecture and culture survived World War II (and a fascist Mussolini). Therefore, cobblestoned streets still unfold to brilliant piazzas holding extravagant churches constructed during the Renaissance period, as well as Baroque masterpieces crafted by geniuses such as Bernini, Caravaggio and Michelangelo.

Modernly, tourists head to the capital to re-live Rome’s history; however, the city’s selling points are art, architecture and by far, cuisine. Of course, if you can afford high-fashion retailers like Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Prada, then you can head to Via del Corso or Piazza de Spagna for shopping too.

Join us on Wednesday, for a step-by-step guide to touring the historic center!

Hotel on the Rails

What if you could forget about hotel-hopping on your next trip and your accommodations followed you instead? The El Transcantabrico of Spain’s state-owned railway line, FEVE, proposes just this. The train (which runs along the historic La Robla Railway), allows you to spend your days conquering several regions of Northern Spain, while returning to the comfort of a luxury hotel in the evenings. Private cabins feature bathrooms with hydro sauna, turbo massage and steam bath, and include a pub carriage featuring a bar, music and dance floor. If you're not exhausted from an evening under the strobe light (I'm not kidding, our pub carriage included a strobe light), you'll want to head to the dining car in the morning where Spanish buffet breakfast and coffee awaits, along with the daily newspaper en Espanol or Ingles.

El Transcantabrico refers to the journey as a, “Cruise on the rails,” since passengers dock at various sites, perhaps pursuing the enchanting Picos de Europa one day, or the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Santiago de Compostela the next. And, you'll also have the option to dine at Michelin-starred restaurants in the white-washed town of Luarca like I did, or even trying your luck at the casinos of sunny Santander’s posh beach community.

During a week-long trek, the train travels through Green Spain, snaking in and out of pre-romanesque and medieval towns and villages of Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria, the Basque Country and Castilla y Leon. My favorite sites included the capital of Asturias, Oviedo, where the quaint Old Town holds a magnificent Gothic cathedral,
San Salvador. Other areas of interest included the Paleolithic cave paintings of Altamira in Santillana del Mar as well as its stone houses dating back to the 15th and 16th century, and of course, the Basque Country’s Bilbao, where the famous Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim features funky permanent collections and traveling exhibitions.

If departing from Santiago de Compostela, we recommend flying into Madrid, and connecting with a flight to A Coruna, Galicia, or Leon, Castilla Y Leon.

For further 2010 and 2011 travel dates and itinerary, log on to the official website. Click on English and cruise away!

Shop in Seville

While you may think the entire point of shopping in Spain is to hit all the unique, privately owned boutiques or outdoor markets, you'd be surprised to learn that the Spanish businessman Amancio Ortega Gaona—arguably one of the top 10 richest men in the world—has built his empire out of chain clothing stores. Perhaps you’ve heard of Zara or Massimo Dutti?

Zara - the gal's favorite chain - tailors a business model of high fashion clothes to the affordable masses. I inexpensively bought a white pea coat from Zara while in Seville, a few years ago, and to this day, no matter where I am in the world, I still get the same question, “Where’d you get that coat?” By the way, that's me to the right after buying the coat! You’ll accidentally stumble across several Zaras while in central Seville, however, check out the ones on the main shopping streets and plazas, Puente y Pellon, C/Rioja, Plaza Duque De La Victoria and Avenida De Luis Morales.

But alas, today, you can also find the high styling of Zara in major U.S. Cities, New York, Chicago, Dallas, and San Francisco. Fortunately, on the above mentioned streets, you’ll also find shops selling jewelry, silk scarves, pottery, Spanish shoes and even those priceless posters of the Matador provoking the big, bad Spanish bull.

Whole Foods Midwest Mecca

The third largest Whole Foods in the world opened in Lincoln Park, Chicago on Wednesday, May 20. Located on 1550 N. Kingsbury, its relocation from the former North Avenue and Sheffield store comes with 75,000 square feet of improvements, making it an organic food Mecca in the Midwest. The exciting opening kicked off with a speech by Mayor Daley, and loyal customers arriving surprised as they were re-directed from their usual route and store. Maggie Bahler, the executive marketing coordinator for Whole Foods’ Midwest region explained that while it took just over a year to build, its been in the works for more than eight!

Third in size to Kensington, England and Austin Lamar locations, the site includes 400 free parking spaces, bike racks, and digitally enhanced check-out lines (think flat screens), with not one but two levels of outdoor seating overlooking the Chicago River, including Wi-Fi and views of the Sears Tower. “With this beautiful weather, you can even kayak to the South Loop Whole Foods if you wanted too,” said Bahler. While a beautiful space indeed, Bahler could not prepare me for what was to be found inside.

The locally-conscious store sells their usual Whole Foods groceries galore, with their organic private label products like 365 and the infamous bulk bars of olives, dried fruit, beans, trail mix, granola, and whole wheat pasta. However, every section is bigger and better, with more variety and hype. There’s the “1550 Brew,” a bar brewing Allegro tea and coffee during the day and serving beer and wine at night. And, if there’s anything I learned from first sight, it’s that every item has its own bar. There’s even a seafood bar, which bakes fish made to order, with a self-serve buffet of calamari, shrimp and shellfish while you wait.

And if you like to eat while you shop, the “Chicago Eats” section includes Windy City staple restaurants: Taylor Street Italian, Wicker Park Subs, Pilsen Taqueria, Lincoln Park Chocolates, Lincoln Park Gelato, Chicago Smokehouse and Rotisserie, and Riverview Dine-In. The sushi-to-go station at Asian Express cooks stir-fry and Vietnamese right before your eyes, while Da’Vine, the wine and cheese bar, includes more seating for laptops and Wi-Fi customers. Bahler recommends heading over to the bakery, where international cookies like macaroons, kalaczi, biscotti, fortune cookies, and shortbread are all cooked with the finest products of the Midwest. The store also includes the largest (and most unique) Whole Body section of soaps, lotions, oils, clothes, and an exclusive baby needs section, all made with locally-conscious ingredients.

Now that you’ve crossed your morning coffee, tea, grocery shopping, lunch, dinner, body goods and baby care off your list, the evening is free to spend at a cooking class taught upstairs! Customers can sign up for the Taste and Travel Series: Italy, India and Israel (the featured class for June). But before you leave, don’t forget to pick up a catering menu, Chicago Eats brochure and the May & June event calendar, as this Whole Foods Mecca will be your everyday summer getaway.

Eat in Seville

If you’ve got one evening to splurge in Seville, we recommend dining where the diplomats, celebrities and socialites do, in the restaurant at Hotel Taberna del Alabardero. Located on Calle Zaragoza 20, it’s a short walk from the Alcazar Palace, Seville Cathedral and it's housed in an elegantly restored mansion, formerly residence of the famous 19th-century poet, J. Antonio Cavestany.

While the restaurant serves traditional, regional and national Spanish food, it’s also a culinary college run by Chef Juan Marcos, so be prepared to taste an innovative menu, with variations on Spain’s classic bull cheek meat, tapas and olive oils. I enjoyed my dinner with Rioja wine; however, the restaurant has a wine list representing every Spanish region.

But if you’re looking for something more “budget friendly,” GatG recommends tapas bar-hopping. Tapas are small dishes that showcase the array of Spanish cuisine. Haven’t you ever sat at a restaurant for dinner in the U.S. and wished you could order a little bit of everything? Well, in Spain you can! Depending on your preference, tapas dishes can include prawns, tuna, squid, octopus, pork, snail, clams, eggplant, zucchini, peppers, tomatoes, garlic, potatoes, cheese, eggs, and much, much more!

While dinner is served late in Spain (anywhere from 8-10PM) you may find it easier to head to a tapas bar in the evening, like the locals. The benefits of tapas bar-hopping are enjoying a wider variety of food and smaller portions, while strolling through the romantic city and meeting with friends. Occasionally, tapas are served complimentary at bars, when ordering sherry, sangria, or other cocktails, but, expect to pay for them as well.

See you Friday for shopping tips in Seville!

Does this Sign Look Familiar to You?

After disembarking an overcrowded, hot and smelly plane, passengers line around the luggage carousel to anxiously gather their belongings. While standing shoulder-to-shoulder, word gets out that their flight is assigned to an alternate carrousel. Like cattle, the herd tramples over each other. Black, navy blue, black, red. “Excuse me, Excuse me.” They excitedly scan each piece of newly dispelled cargo, until making an association with “the one.” It is then strolled to their cab, and unloaded at home, where they finally realize, they’ve chosen the wrong one. But who could be this stupid and careless?

Me. December 2003. After traveling internationally for a couple of days I was so excited to see my friends and family that I accidentally picked up another huge navy blue suitcase identical to mine. So, you could start to “Check your tags.” Or you could do what I do, buy a set of terribly bright pink luggage that no one in the world would ever have.

City of the Week: Seville, Spain

Romantic Seville, our favorite Spanish city of the south, sits in Andalucia, making it an excellent base for either touring the region’s sherry bodegas and bullrings to the nearby west, or the posh beach resorts to the east, in Spain’s sunny Costa del Sol. However, as Seville is the capital of Andalucia, you won't need to escape the city to explore the region’s rich history of Arabic and Roman roots.

You can begin strolling through the Old Town’s narrow cobblestoned alleyways, arriving at the Gothic cathedral and La Giralda –minaret, which was named an UNESCO World Heritage site and was once used as a vantage point, offering spectacular views over the town. Continue to the Alcazar Palace, originally a Moorish Fort, and the famous 12-sided Torre del Oro. Other areas of interest include the Jewish Quarter, Barrio de Santa Cruz (which include unique white and ochre houses), and the Basilica de la Macarena (featuring the Virgin of Hope).

Make sure you spend an evening in one of the festive flamenco bars, where tapas and sangria are served over a show. If visiting Seville on a Sunday in April (after Easter) through mid-October, you can catch a bull fight at the Plaza de Toros Real Maestranza. If visiting the town out of bull season, you can still tour the bullring’s museum to get a glimpse of the impressive costumes, tools, posters, and the infirmary where bullfighters are sent when defeated!

Finally, if time is on your side, head to the Museo de Bellas Artes (Museum of Fine Arts), arguably the second museum of Spanish art after the Prado in Madrid. Inside, you’ll find works from Spanish artists, Murillo, Zurbaran, Valdes Leal, El Greco, and Velazquaz—the Spanish equivalent to the Italian-baroque Caravaggio.

Hungry for more? See you right here on Wednesday and Friday for further tips on where to eat and where to shop!

Eataly, Italy

Turin, the region’s capital, is home to Eataly, a food emporium endorsed by Slow Food,the movement turned organization dedicated to combating fast food by teaching the world about the culture of cuisine. Good food for all, the philosophy of Slow Food maintains eating well was not intended for intimate, privileged circles.

Eataly is housed in the former Carpano Vermouth Factory, and sells fresh food, wine and coffee produced from small companies, farmers and enologists throughout Italy’s 20-some regions, while also offering open cooking classes, olive oil and wine tastings. While touring through Eataly, customers can stop along the way to enjoy a margherita pizza, prosciutto crudo, mozzarella and more. However, GatG recommends taking home a few staples from Turin's Piedmont region, Barolo wine (produced from the nebbiolo grape), polenta, and the Baratti&Milano Cioccolata.

Bullseye Bazaar On Michigan Avenue

I just returned from the Press Event for Bullseye Bazaar, Target’s three-day pop-up store on 455 N. Michigan Avenue, located in the former McCormick Freedom Museum. The event (running from May 7 – May 9, 2009 from 10AM – 8PM), created to generate buzz in potential consumers, showcased Target’s top items, making one thing very clear. Target is no longer just the one-stop economical shop for house wares, make-up, groceries, bed linens and frames. Its become a one-stop shop for the latest in designer products at affordable prices. And, this season you’ll find the products come in every color, shape and flavor!

My favorite finds of the day were clothes, food and make-up. This season’s Tracy Feith Collection, inspired by the designers’ surf-dude-attitude, features fitted spring dresses with colorful wavy hems and ruffles, vintage bikinis and flower prints—a nod to the 60’s. And, Converse’s One Star line of contoured cotton tees and tops are perfect for double-use. Perhaps wear it under the everyday work blazer, or dress it down with casual jeans for a walk in the park. Either way, you’ll find one in just about every color! And for your beau, you’ll also find fresh Converse styles, as well as Target’s faithful Mossimo brand.

But who can keep shopping without stopping to grab a bite to eat first? The Target-owned organic food brand, Archer Farms puts yummy and healthy in a jar, with picante-style and roasted vegetable salsa, raspberry walnut sauces, buffalo bleu cheese dipping sauce, and seasoning for mushroom and Swiss taco burgers. If I’d only known that I could have had a taco and a burger at the same time, and while watching my waistline, I’d have headed to Target much sooner.

As I tried to decide on seasonings and salad dressings, the merchandise-heavy booths on every aisle and corner of the colorful bazaar made me bizarrely hungry for more products. And who should I meet, but celebrity make-up artist Sergio Lopez-Rivera. Visiting for a short time from L.A., Sergio, whose current project is styling the cast faces of Private Practice on ABC, explained that the 80’s are back. Everything goes today, meaning you can wear bright make-up to match a multi-patterned outfit. Additionally, he recommends bright lipsticks with soft eye shadows. Or bright eye shadows with muted lip balm. I bought Sonia Kashuk’s luxury lip color, Azalea, for only $8.95. For hair products as well, Target’s Umberto line features blow-dry lotion, curl-enhancing lotion, shampoo, conditioner and more.

Finally, I was exhausted. I needed to sit-down. Gracing both floors of the Bazaar were sleek, black and silver chaise lounges and slipper chairs of mod, rich, pink flowers and funky designs. The high-profile furniture, typically featured on-line only, is available at the Bazaar for the next three days! Which is probably why I couldn’t really sit down in them. I’d been there long enough anyway. Now the hard part was getting out of the place without buying anything else. Rows of red and gold sandals stacked on shiny boxes, comforters with bold, sophisticated patterns, bath mats with black and white stenciling, even clutch handbags for beach parties all waved goodbye.

The Bullseye Bazaar runs for three days, May 7 – May 9, 2009, from 10AM – 8PM on 455 N. Michigan Avenue. Have fun!

Rome, Angels and Demons World Premiere

By Araceli Cardenas-Bon

ROME - The cast of “Angels & Demons” graced the red carpet in Rome, Italy for its World Premiere last night, at Auditorium Parco della Musica, a theater located about a mile away from St. Peter’s Basilica.

The film, about a secret society trying to take over Rome, and, the Vatican, is a thriller based on Dan Brown’s best-selling novel. Sequel to “The Da Vinci Code,” “Angels & Demons” features Tom Hanks as symbologist Robert Langdon trying to save the Vatican from an ancient religious group, “the Illumanti,” from committing a terrorist attack.

Despite restrictions, Sony theatres managed to recreate a glitzy premiere with decorated angel and demon statues, and Swiss guards welcoming cast members, Tom Hanks, Ewan McGregor and Ayelet Zurer. And of course, director Ron Howard and author Dan Brown.

Expected to hit theatres worldwide soon (and in the U.S. May 15, 2009), the film made media headlines after the Vatican was accused of “exerting its’ influence by interfering with shooting permits in the Eternal City” - a charge the Vatican strongly denies as a “fabricated publicity stunt.”

Regardless of the controversy, Howard reminded attendees & fans alike, “Despite all that’s been said, remember that it’s just a film.” With that in mind, we tried interviewing one of the Swiss guards. But, it seems the Vatican has cast its’ spell. Oh well! We settled for Dan’s Brown autograph instead!