For some reason, planes love to layover in Amsterdam. And, if you happen to be like the gals I’ve talked to, chances are—layovers in Amsterdam are famous for this—it lasts a ridiculous eight hours. What are you supposed to do during that time? How about take two trips for the price of one! That’s right; this is no time to take a nap. Suck it up; grab a coffee and start walking boots!
Okay, so imagine your flight has landed into Amsterdam Schiphol Airport, where, after exiting customs you have the option to walk to your next gate or exit. Exit, then take the escalators and follow the signs to the airport’s train station. Stop here! Do not get on the train yet! If you’re like me, you’re going to want to drop off any extra luggage, coat or carry-on that you did not check. Remember, you’ve only got eight hours so you’ll want to ditch the dead weight. Take the corner elevator (opposite the train station) down to the basement where the lockers await. The lockers are pretty easy to maneuver, but make sure you have Euro coins on you. If not, there’s an attendant that can give you change.
Once you get to the train station, you’re going to be intimidated. There are so many trains to figure out and so little time. First, take a right upon your entrance to pick up a ticket at the ticket booth. Note: there are ticket machines you can use; however, I found these not to be as user-friendly as say the ones in Rome or London. Buy a roundtrip ticket to Amsterdam Central Station, as roundtrips are cheaper than one-ways (roundtrip will run you approximately between 6 – 7 Euros). You can also purchase tickets ahead of time at the Dutch Railways website, where tickets to Antwerp, Paris, Berlin and beyond are available (hmmm…perhaps forget about the layover all together and take the train to your next destination).
Your average journey to Amsterdam Central Station is 17 minutes (13 minutes at the train’s fastest). Once you make it out of the station you can meander through the old town, be surprised to learn about head shops, marijuana shops, sex shops, etc…Do not be deceived. Amsterdam is still famously known as an art city, with the Van Gogh Museum (as well as 37 other museums), the Anne Frank House, theaters and concert halls, the Haarlemmerstraat, clogs, Heineken and much, much more. Check out Amsterdam’s official website.
My favorite finds on this trip: old-school bicycles everywhere, clogs, flying over the Baltic Sea, realizing that every European city with canals north of Venice is referred to as, “Venice of the North.” And learning that the sunlight in Holland is unique and the reason behind why Dutch pastoral paintings are so remarkable. Oh, and no matter how friendly head shop owners are and no matter how “normal” they make using drugs seem, do not buy shrooms. You have to head back to the airport, remember? You do not want to be Bridget Jones on her trip to Thailand.
Thinking about California this summer, with its bright lights and sandy beaches? What better way to get in shape for the Los Angeles nightlife or surfing the waves than a full-day hike on Half Dome at Yosemite National Park? Half Dome—literally half of a mountain made out of granite— climbs almost 5,000 feet, and according to the National Park, that’s 8,800 feet above sea level. The hiking challenge is a full-day feat and summons the most physically fit to its summit.
The roundtrip hike can take anywhere from 14-16 hours, and, in case you’re in over your head (note, the air is a little thin up there), park rangers offer their assistance. If you think you’re one in the few thousands that can pull off the hike each year, then spectacular views of Yosemite Valley, Vernal and Nevada Falls, Liberty Cap, and High Sierra await you.
If you’re a normal person and prefer to stay below with the bears and snakes, 1,200 square miles of National Park grounds include sinuous paths weaving in and around valleys, waterfalls, and wildlife. Note: If you’re prone to car sickness, do not sit in the back seat. For more information on camping and lodging, climbing the dome, year-round activities, or things like “glaciers,” check out the Yosemite National Park Webpage. Otherwise, we recommend flying into Fresno Yosemite International Airport and driving an hour and a half to the park. More airports and driving directions can be found here.
You cannot head to Munich without visiting its beautiful alpine region, Bavaria. Waterfalls scrape along the mountains’ rough cliffs, while lush meadows inside its layers open to crystal blue and green lakes, and clouds soar through majestic peaks. If you’re not visualizing a romantic postcard picture in your head yet, then maybe you’ll also need a tour of King Ludwig II’s enchanting castles, Lake Koenigsee and the town of Berchtesgaden. Once the Kingdom of Bavaria, the people may still call themselves Bavarian, despite its location on the German-Austrian Border.
Bavaria is a perfect place for skiing or summering, and tourists will want to begin with a trek through Berchtesgaden National Park, just outside of Austria’s Salzburg. Hiking trails, kayaking and mountain biking are a few outdoor activities, and while we recommend taking a boat ride through Lake Koenigsee in the summer, you may be able to ice skate on it during the winter! Perhaps the work of glacial recessions, Lake Koenigsee and Berchtesgaden National Park provide an impressive landscape, as steep mountain gorges and endless skies seem to sweep on forever, with the lake’s reflecting waters. Depending on the season, you may also ski, white-water raft or fish. However, if you’re interested in a unique indoor activity, consider touring the Salt Mines in Obersalzburg. A train snakes inside the mysterious mountain range, where caverns and little lakes stream through the cool interior of the Alps, teaching guests how salt is made.
While in Obersalzburg, you’ll find the Eagle’s Nest, a chalet style retreat built for Adolph Hitler for his 50th birthday. Obersalzburg is often associated with the Nazi hierarchy (Hitler supposedly finished writing Mein Kampf here), with ruins of Berghof remaining. While the Bavarian government and U.S. Army destroyed Berghof (they did not want any monuments that would tribute Hitler’s reign) history-hungry travelers can still tour the Eagle’s Nest. It is buried in a mountain half a mile up, and while it can be difficult for transportation to get to because of its height, steep and slim driving trail, tours typically run from May through October depending on the weather. Reportedly Hitler actually spent very little time here, as he was afraid of heights.
Just below, you’ll find the medieval town of Berchtesgaden, a favorite vacation spot for King Ludwig II. Finally, if you’re inspired, we suggest making visits to Ludwig’s three most beautiful, peculiar and interesting castles of Bavaria:
Located in Southwestern Bavaria between Hohenschwangau and Fussen, Neuschwanstein Castle’s fairy tale like towers and 19th century style architecture make it the most famous and recognizable castle and Walt Disney’s inspiration for his Cinderella Castle.
Herrenchiemsee Palace, built on an island in Lake Chimesse, was meant to be Ludwig’s response to the Palace of Versailles, and features more than 20 staterooms, grand staircases and a Hall of Mirrors.
Our favorite, Linderhof Palace, is located just outside of Oberammergau, where the famous Passion Play is performed once every 10 years. Linderhof, Ludwig II’s smallest castle built in Rococo style, was originally inherited from his father, and became Ludwig II’s final resting place (he did not live to see its completion). While he was known for being more than a bit “mad,” his castles and palaces are so eclectic and entertaining, that after his death, they were opened to the paying public, in order to pay off his debt.
Other areas of interest as day trips from Munich include Dachau and Augsburg.
To begin exploring medieval Munich, head to the Altstadt, or “old city.” Here, three gates of the original town borders still stand: the Sendlinger Tor in the south, Isartor to the east, and Karlstor in the west. At the town center you’ll find Marienplatz, the Altstadt’s main square and home to the town hall, Rathaus. During the Middle Ages, this square hosted the town’s jousts, games, tournaments and executions. Today, you’ll enjoy live musicians, beer and street performers aplenty.
After hitting Marienplatz, head north to the Nationaltheater and former royal palace off Max-Joseph-Platz, where gothic churches and colorful architecture line the cobblestoned streets, eventually unfolding to the Platzl quarter. Known for its nightlife, consider eating dinner at the famous brewery/beer hall and restaurant, Hofbrauhaus. The Hofbrauhaus also hosts a music hall, with musicians and dancers performing in lederhosen. Be sure to enjoy some beer, brats and turkey legs, and definitely don’t skip out on dessert. You’ve got a long evening of walking and weaving in and out of nightclubs and street performers ahead of you. Remember, Munich is a great place for the single traveler.
If you can make it out of bed the next morning, head to the city’s busiest destinations and main streets, Maximilianstrasse, Kaufingerstrasse and Neuhauserstrasse, where high-end hotels and upscale shopping lead you to 19th century avenues, Ludwigstrasse and Brienner Strasse. Admire both neoclassical and neo-Romanesque architecture, and stroll over to Ludwigstrasse, an elegant avenue originally designed for King Ludwig I.
While other areas of interest include Lehel, Gasteig, Nympehburg, Schwabing, and Bogenhausen, we recommend making time to visit Olympiapark. Home to the 1972 Olympics, the stadium represents Germany’s second chance to host the Olympic Games. The country first hosted the Games in Berlin in 1936, under Hitler’s rule. The Germans were so eager to change their reputation from the 1936 games that they banned weapons from the Olympiapark in an effort to demonstrate their modern, democratic nation, leaving security vulnerable and open.
Tragically, in 1972, the Olympiapark (and Munich as well as Germany in general) became known for the terrorist attacks against Israeli Olympians, which killed 11 people. Americans are familiar with the historic events because of the movie Munich. But walking into the stadium highlighted the highest ideals of teamwork, unity and peace, so I still had to ask, how could something like this happen?
For more history and touring of the region, join us again on Friday as we head through the Bavarian Alps. We’ll learn more about King Ludwig II while visiting Lake Koenigsee and make a stop at the Eagle’s Nest, a chalet style retreat built for Adolph Hitler for his 50th birthday.
I debated whether to give in-the-middle-of-the-night plane crashes the time of day. Especially on Gal about the Globe, an informative online travel magazine that tries to stay upbeat and positive, despite the disastrous journeys that may arise out of our adventures. But however fantastical being a Gal about the Globe sounds, it occurred to me that safety is always an issue while traveling. So what’s the harm in addressing the Airbus’s recent catastrophic crashes? And more importantly, who and what is Airbus anyway?
Before answering that question, let me preface with a personal experience, a flashback. I flew on Lufthansa‘s fabulous first-class on one of the newest Airbuses during my April to May 2008 trip to Munich and Bavaria. But while enamored with the extra floor allocated to bathrooms alone, the horizontal capabilities of my sleeper-chair and Wolfgang Puck’s menu, I thought about the Titanic. Everyone said God himself couldn’t destruct such an intelligent piece of machinery. And, after landing back in the states, my cab driver, an immigrant with a jet obsession, mentioned that he not only saw my plane touch down, but since viewing the Airbus’s maiden voyage on the news, he’s stayed abreast of the jet’s technology. “If that plane goes down -- if something goes wrong -- you better have a Bible,” he said. “Those things fly themselves and ain’t no pilot gonna tell it what to do.”
Is this possible? I wondered, thinking of Terminator. Can these planes fly themselves and will they turn on us? Fast forward to June 2009. Air France regrets to announce that flight 447 (an A330-200), carrying 228 passengers from Rio de Janeiro to Paris was lost in the middle of the night. Just like that, the plane fell off the radar. As news sources announced the plane reported electrical problems, it now appears that “airspeed sensors were faulty … and the autopilot and auto-thrust system had disengaged,” an icing over of equipment likely caused by a tumultuous thunderstorm. Just one month later, on July 1, a Yemeni airliner, an Airbus 310-300 en route from Paris, crashed over the Indian Ocean during its final leg of the journey from Sana, Yemen to Moroni, Comoros—just 9 miles from the island.
This, among a string of smaller, similar Airbus wrecks has prompted me to ask, just who and what is Airbus anyway?
The company, based in Toulouse, France is owned by a European consortium, and calls itself a “leading aircraft manufacturer with the most modern and comprehensive product line.” From a glance at the company’s web site, it has a few decades of innovation, a couple of “green-friendly” trend campaigns on the horizon and a nod to a sexy Paris Air Show. With a closer look we learn that it’s a company competing with Boeing, earning billions in commitments for new planes for more than 200 airline carriers.
However, the most important piece of information is that Airbus is known for innovating and heavily relying on the fly-by- wire technology; a technology that is not only computerized but also allows computers to take control of the aircraft when the aircraft is in trouble, as opposed to allowing a trained pilot to try to amend the trouble instead. And, while Airbus’s competitor, Boeing, only owns this technology on their newest aircrafts, they allow their pilots to take over and amend any trouble, if necessary.
But what is fly-by-wire technology?
According to my brother, Evan, an aircraft mechanic for L-3 Vertex Aerospace, the fly-by- wire technology is electronic. “Instead of a bunch of heavy cables mechanically sending signals to the rest of the plane (like on most Boeings), lighter wires send electronic signals instead, making the flight computerized, and saving weight on the plane.” While newer Boeing planes are beginning to utilize the fly-by-wire technology, many of its planes still use hydraulic and mechanical devices to send signals through the cables, eventually carrying out commands to the rest of the plane.
Evan also explains that the fly-by-wire technology is not only lighter and innovative, but it is very safe, as it uses multiple channels that can send signals throughout the plane, in the event that something does go wrong, and one channel is dysfunctional. Additionally, when the plane experiences turbulence, the fly-by-wire typically measures the turbulence and tells the plane how to straighten out, perhaps speeding up, slowing down, etc.
However, since Airbuses are electronic and computerized, if one piece of equipment experiences difficulties — like the speedometer icing over on the Air France flight mentioned above — it’s possible for the rest of the electronic equipment to receive inaccurate information, leading to a domino effect, creating endless possible issues. Perhaps it is also noteworthy to mention that the fly-by-wire technology has only been used on commercial planes since 1988.
I'll try to simplify: What happens when your BlackBerry is in an area where it has to search for the Internet or a signal too much? The battery dies, right? Or, even simpler, what happens when you can’t get an internet signal? Suddenly you can’t get e-mails, phone calls, or even the GPS system you downloaded to get to your next destination.
While ultimately, our BlackBerries do not fly planes, the Airbus and its fly-by-wire technology gives us something to think about. Should we be worried the next time we fly over the Atlantic or the Pacific? Should we make sure our plane is a Boeing instead of an Airbus as we learned that at least pilots can disengage the fly-by-wire during crisis? Or would you trust the computers to fly the plane instead?
Regardless of what we decide, perhaps we should accept that in the end, if it comes down to it, my cab driver’s advice is probably more accurate than my pilot’s training or a computer’s advanced technology. “If that plane goes down -- if something goes wrong -- you better have a Bible.”
Located in southeastern Germany, Munich is the capital of Bavaria, and one of Germany’s cultural treasures. Nestled just above the Bavarian Alps, Munich’s folklore, historic center, art and city-savvy lifestyle attract Germans nationwide, as well as ex-patriots. So don’t be surprised when you find a great mix of people, as opposed to just the average Bavarian living in the city. In fact, when heading to Munich, you’ll want to leave the kids at home, as Munich’s nightlife accommodates the single working-professional.
To get a good idea of Munich, you’ll need a bit of a history lesson first. The city stands after two world wars, with an Italian influence, as Italy and Germany were once allies. Italian restaurants, language and cars may fool you into believing you’re in Italy. But alas, once you notice how clean the streets are and see the locals working for a living; you’ll remember where you are. Especially since Germans are just as proud of their own products and cars. BMW –that’s Bavarian Motorwerks—(or Bayern in Bavarian), as well as Mercedes-Benz and Rolls Royce are based in Munich, with other manufacturers like Volkswagen located just to the north.
When Munich’s citizens aren’t busy buying or building cars, they’re at a Biergarten or a soccer stadium, cheering on Germany’s best team at the new Allianz Stadium, FC Bayern Munchen. It is important to note that the team also follows suit with Munich’s mix of culture, as players have included Danes, Belgians, Swedes and Prussians—perhaps conceding with Munich’s tradition to keep Bavarians in Munich a minority.
Join us on Wednesday as we stroll through medieval Munich, eat some bratwurst at a favorite Biergarten, and tour Olympiapark Munchen— where the 1972 Olympic games where held. Friday, we’ll head to the Bavarian Alps, with a tour through Hitler’s Eagle’s Nest, Lake Koenigsee and more!
By Jamie Smith In Spain, all roads lead to Madrid. Well, at least all the major rail lines do. If you plan to be in Madrid for several days, consider taking advantage of its centrality and plan a day trip to one of Spain’s other beautiful cities. Several cities, including Barcelona and Seville, are served by a high-speed train which cuts travel time nearly in half. Moreover, even the trains which aren’t technically high-speed run at an accelerated rate because they travel on the same super efficient rails.
It’s easy to get to Madrid’s train stations, as all are served by the Metro system. You can buy your tickets at the train station and several dealers throughout the city, though it’s most convenient to purchase them online and print them yourself. You can not only see timetables and maps in English, but purchase tickets through an English language interface as well.
One final tip: there are often great last minute deals, but unfortunately that portion of the site is only in Spanish. Seats can be discounted by as much as 50% in the last 24 hours before the trip, so be sure to check there if you’re traveling on a whim.
For more of Jamie's adventures, follow her blog, Shame on Seamus.
Madrid has one of the best subway systems in the world, but the best way to explore the city is on foot. With so many cultural attractions, stores, restaurants, and people packed into such a small space, you’re sure to find fun just strolling.
The following is an itinerary that provides structure and suggestions for a day of walking in Madrid, but also allows plenty of freedom for wandering. After reading this post, check out the accompanying Google map for exact addresses and directions.
1. This itinerary starts at the Gran Vía Metro station, the Gran Vía being the main boulevard that runs through the heart of Madrid. On this street and the streets branching from it you’ll find some of Spain’s trendiest shops, including Zara, Mango, and Sfera. Most start business around 10 am, so sleep in or enjoy a traditional Spanish breakfast of churros and hot chocolate while you wait for the stores to open.
2. Once you’ve cruised the Gran Vía, head over to the Royal Palace of Madrid, the official residence of the King of Spain. The Royal Family doesn’t actually live in the palace, but it’s still used for official functions and remains a museum of Spain’s regal history.
3. After touring the palace and surveying the expansive gardens, head south to the Plaza Mayor. Madrid (and all Spanish cities) are lousy with plazas, but the Plaza Mayor is one of the most interesting visually. Dating back to the height of the Hapsburg dynasty, this square has been used for everything from bullfights to autos de fe during the Spanish Inquisition.
4. If it’s Sunday between 7 am and 2:30 pm, your next stop should be the El Rastro flea market just down the street from the Plaza Mayor. Billed as Europe’s largest flea market, you can find souvenirs, crafts, and clothing, both new and old. There is no exact address so follow the crowds to find the goods, but keep a hand on your bag. Pickpockets often target visitors to the market.
5. Whether coming from El Rastro or Plaza Mayor, the next stop is the Puerta del Sol. Take some time to look around the shops, restaurants, and homes on the meandering streets that lead you to the city’s largest plaza. Puerta del Sol originally was one of the gates (puertas) in the wall that guarded the city in the 15th century. Unfortunately construction on a new metro stop has been going on in the center of the plaza for several years, but you can still get a sense of its grandeur. Puerta del Sol is the place where Madrileños often meet up to begin a night out. While you watch other groups connect or perhaps wait for a group of your own, head over to the giant clock tower to see Kilometre Zero, the point that delineates east, west, north, and south for Madrid.
6. While you’re in Puerta del Sol, be sure to also pop in to El Corte Ingles, the biggest department store in Spain. Unlike department stores in America, El Corte Ingles really does sell everything, from groceries to books to travel packages. They also sell contemporary Spanish fans that make great gifts for friends at home.
7. If you’ve been shopping and stopping to look at things that interest you as you move from point to point, it’s probably getting into the evening and time for dinner. Spaniards usually eat dinner around 8 or 9 pm and go out afterwards, even on weeknights, and you should do the same. From the Puerta del Sol, head southeast to La Latina, one of several neighborhood’s in the city where you’ll find a thriving nightlife. Spaniards usually move from place to place—drinks or an aperitif in one bar, tapas in another, and so on through a neighborhood and into the evening. There will be plenty to eat and drink in La Latina, so relajate and don’t worry about staying up too late. Nothing opens until 10 tomorrow anyway.
By Jamie Smith While Madrid is the center of an extremely diverse country, it would be something of a misnomer to call it a melting pot. Those who have live in the capital often don’t blend in to the city but rather retain their fierce regional pride and provincial perspective, even if their family has been Madrileños for generations. In a country where no one hesitates to tell you what they really think, striking up a conversation in Madrid is one of the best ways to encounter a variety of Spanish perspectives.
And there’s no better place to talk to the locals than in a bar or restaurant (in Madrid, it’s often impossible to tell the difference between the two!). Spaniards tend to spend significant portions of their evenings at the corner bar socializing with their neighbors and whoever else is hanging out. Eating, drinking, and arguing are nothing less than national pastimes. But don’t be intimidated by the passion with which they discuss politics or soccer—most people are very sociable and open to being approached.
While you’re enjoying a cerveza and some conversation, impress your new friends by ordering some of these traditional dishes from Madrid.
Cocido madrileño: A hearty stew of chickpeas and root vegetables, beef, marrow, bacon, blood sausage, and chorizo.
Sope de ajo: A simple soup of garlic, bread, oil, and paprika. It may not sound like much, but in the hands of the right cook, it’s divine.
Manchego: A semi-soft sheep’s milk cheese with a distinctive, salty taste. Usually served with bread and cured meats.
Callos: Those with a weak stomach might be hesitant to try this dish, the main ingredient of which is stomach, or tripe. Give it a chance, however, as the tripe is simmered in a delicious tomato-based sauce with chorizo and ham.
To read more of Jamie's adventures, check out her blog, Shame on Seamus. Be sure to join us on Wednesday as Jamie takes us on a tour of Madrid's historic center.
Your perfect Turin itinerary includes spending your morning in the Museo Egizio and Museo Nazionale del Cinema. At lunch, enjoy Piedmontese cuisine at a family-run trattoria, and then venture back out to get a glimpse of the Shroud of Turin in the Duomo di San Giovanni Battista. Finish your first day of sight-seeing with the Galleria Sabauda (same palazzo as Museo Egizio), where the dukes and kings of Italy’s famous Savoy family feature 14th to 19th century art work from Piedmontese, Italian and Flemish painters.
The Museo Egizio is considered to have the best collection of ancient Egyptian art and artifacts outside of Cairo [and arguably London], dating to 1400 BC, a collection initially acquired by the Savoys. Expect pharaohs, tombs and relics, the perfect artifacts of not only a culture, but of a film or movie set; perhaps a great precursor to the Museo Nazionale del Cinema. While the Mole Antonelliana has housed the Museo Nazionale del Cinema since only 2000, you’ll find history of Italian and American cinema, and art, with rooms resembling a theme, love, horror, death, etc. The props purchased from films like Aliens and Star Wars are amusing, as is the Marilyn Monroe memorabilia, movie posters and some of the first technology used to record and edit motion pictures. Don’t forget to take a ride in the elevator to the top of the dome for views of the city, Po and Alps. The building was originally constructed to be a synagogue, so you’ll find the architecture unique (however, many Italians refer to it as appalling too, think Eiffel Tower).
Tired and hungry yet? Since it’s time for lunch, stroll over to the Quadrilatero Romano where Diciottobi in Piazza Castello serves an affordable Italian brunch until 3PM, or head to the popular Neopolitan-style Pizzeria, Fratelli La Cozza on Via Cesare Battisti 13. Afterward, you must stop in one of the city’s historical baroque coffee shops. As the origination of the chocolate bar is attributed to the Piedmont region, the coffee shops in Turin combine chocolate and milk cream (and of course coffee) to make Bicerin. I adore the coffee shop, al Bicerin, on Piazza della Consolata 5. The coffee house opened in 1763 as a citron-water and confectionary shop and its’ marble tables, bar, wooden paneling and cast-iron detailing takes me on a time-machine to a romantic Italian movie (perhaps featured at the Mole Antonelliana also, no?).
Touring after your long lunch includes the Galleria Sabauda, where Botticelli, Rembrandts and portraits of the Savoy family complete your art history lesson. As for religion, well, you can head to Duomo di San Giovanni Battista. Built between the 14th to 15th century and said to be Turin’s only example of Renaissance architecture, the cathedral holds the Shroud of Turin. However, you only get to see the copy of it, hanging in front of the altar. The real shroud is only displayed every 25 years, so come back in 2025 for the viewing, okay?
And now it’s off to your hotel, for a shower and change of clothes before starting your Italian evening. Consider starting your stroll at one of the excellent wine bars and finish with a dinner at Ristorante Tre Galline on Via Bellezia 37. I loved the polenta—a dish typical to this region—and recommend trying the risotto and veal! See you on Friday as we take a day trip to Piedmont’s alpine region, including the slopes of the 2006 Winter Olympics. Ooooh! And why not enjoy a quick stop at the Martini factory? Just make sure someone else is driving.
