'Oh, save me! Oh, guide me! And bid the deep hide me, For he grasps me now by the hair!' The loud Ocean heard, To its blue depth stirred, And divided at her prayer; And under the water The Earth's white daughter Fled like a sunny beam; Behind her descended Her billows, unblended With the brackish Dorian stream:-- Like a gloomy stain On the emerald main Alpheus rushed behind,-- As an eagle pursuing A dove to its ruin Down the streams of the cloudy wind.
From "Arethusa" by Percy Bysshe Shelley
On Wednesday we touched on the power and might of Mount Etna. Today, let's take a look at another possible day trip from Catania, this time to the region of Siracusa, the jewel of the Mediterranean and one of the most conquered cities in history.
This morning hop on a bus to Ortygia, to find a freshwater spring that feeds into the Fountain of Arethusa, only feet from the Ionian Sea. This myth, captured in the poem above by Shelley, details the transformation of the nymph Arethusa, into a fountain. The story goes something like this: Arethusa happily comes across a clear stream and begins bathing, not knowing the stream is in fact the river god Alpheus. From there it's your standard river god meets nymph story, with your threats of rape, a long chase, prayers to the goddess Artemis, and eventual answering of prayer by transformation into a stream. It all ends well, with Arethusa flowing to the island of Ortygia and Alpheus finding her there to mingle with her waters for eternity.
Afterward, continue west to the small town of Noto, which represents the pinnacle of Sicily's Baroque period. Where Catania is dark and grim with volcano rock from Etna, the buildings of Noto are built with limestone, giving towers, offices and the cathedral a bright, fairy tale-like feel. Here in Noto find the virgin Saint Lucy, patron saint of the blind.
One story tells that in response to a suitor who admired her beautiful eyes, Saint Lucy cut them out and sent them to him, asking to be left in peace. Later, God restored Lucy's sight. Paintings and statues of Lucy often show her unimpressed, offering a platter carrying her former eyes.
The famous Cathedral in Noto is worth a visit to get a sense of the many cultures who have overtaken and dominated the city. A large, ominous shift in a stone pillar hints at the earthquake that destroyed at the end of the 17th century. The architecture beautifully layers the Greeks temple, Islamic mosque and Catholic cathedral of the conquerors who ruled Siracusa over the centuries.
Finally, make your way to the city of Syracuse to find the Ear of Dionysius (pictured below right). An artificial limestone cave carved out of the Temenites hill, its name comes from its similarity in shape to the human ear.
According to legend, the tyrant Dionysius I of Siracusa used the cave as a prison for political dissidents, using the perfect acoustics to eavesdrop on plans and secrets of his captives, as well as amplify the screams of his victims.
Because of its shape the Ear has extremely good acoustics, and even a small sound resonate throughout the cave.
A short walk through the beautiful otherworldly garden outside will lead you to an ampitheater carved in stone by slaves. The Ear below served as the amp of the stage. From here make your way back two hours to Catania for the night, perhaps stopping at the eastern edge to dip your toes in the sea.
