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Wednesday, July 8, 2009

More Madrid: On Foot

By Jamie Smith

Madrid has one of the best subway systems in the world, but the best way to explore the city is on foot. With so many cultural attractions, stores, restaurants, and people packed into such a small space, you’re sure to find fun just strolling.

The following is an itinerary that provides structure and suggestions for a day of walking in Madrid, but also allows plenty of freedom for wandering. After reading this post, check out the accompanying Google map for exact addresses and directions.

1. This itinerary starts at the Gran Vía Metro station, the Gran Vía being the main boulevard that runs through the heart of Madrid. On this street and the streets branching from it you’ll find some of Spain’s trendiest shops, including Zara, Mango, and Sfera. Most start business around 10 am, so sleep in or enjoy a traditional Spanish breakfast of churros and hot chocolate while you wait for the stores to open.

2. Once you’ve cruised the Gran Vía, head over to the Royal Palace of Madrid, the official residence of the King of Spain. The Royal Family doesn’t actually live in the palace, but it’s still used for official functions and remains a museum of Spain’s regal history.

3. After touring the palace and surveying the expansive gardens, head south to the Plaza Mayor. Madrid (and all Spanish cities) are lousy with plazas, but the Plaza Mayor is one of the most interesting visually. Dating back to the height of the Hapsburg dynasty, this square has been used for everything from bullfights to autos de fe during the Spanish Inquisition.

4. If it’s Sunday between 7 am and 2:30 pm, your next stop should be the El Rastro flea market just down the street from the Plaza Mayor. Billed as Europe’s largest flea market, you can find souvenirs, crafts, and clothing, both new and old. There is no exact address so follow the crowds to find the goods, but keep a hand on your bag. Pickpockets often target visitors to the market.

5. Whether coming from El Rastro or Plaza Mayor, the next stop is the Puerta del Sol. Take some time to look around the shops, restaurants, and homes on the meandering streets that lead you to the city’s largest plaza. Puerta del Sol originally was one of the gates (puertas) in the wall that guarded the city in the 15th century. Unfortunately construction on a new metro stop has been going on in the center of the plaza for several years, but you can still get a sense of its grandeur. Puerta del Sol is the place where Madrileños often meet up to begin a night out. While you watch other groups connect or perhaps wait for a group of your own, head over to the giant clock tower to see Kilometre Zero, the point that delineates east, west, north, and south for Madrid.

6. While you’re in Puerta del Sol, be sure to also pop in to El Corte Ingles, the biggest department store in Spain. Unlike department stores in America, El Corte Ingles really does sell everything, from groceries to books to travel packages. They also sell contemporary Spanish fans that make great gifts for friends at home.

7. If you’ve been shopping and stopping to look at things that interest you as you move from point to point, it’s probably getting into the evening and time for dinner. Spaniards usually eat dinner around 8 or 9 pm and go out afterwards, even on weeknights, and you should do the same. From the Puerta del Sol, head southeast to La Latina, one of several neighborhood’s in the city where you’ll find a thriving nightlife. Spaniards usually move from place to place—drinks or an aperitif in one bar, tapas in another, and so on through a neighborhood and into the evening. There will be plenty to eat and drink in La Latina, so relajate and don’t worry about staying up too late. Nothing opens until 10 tomorrow anyway.

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