Dancing with the Mop: Lessons Learned from Studying Abroad

Photo: Museo Nacional del Prado

By Bethy Hardeman, follow her blog on Yahoo!

I walked out of my third- floor apartment in Madrid, Spain to the sound of Antonio's birds chirping above me. I looked up after shutting the door to see Antonio himself cleaning in the hallway. He looked up and a smile crept across his chubby face.

"What are you doing, Antonio?" I asked in Spanish.

He stopped his cleaning briefly and smiled bigger. "I'm dancing," he said, winking, "dancing with the mop." He immediately swooped the mop up in his arms and commenced a funny little dance, humming merrily as he did so.

That was my study abroad experience. It wasn't filled with loud dorm rooms full of other American students or large universities packed to the brim with English-speaking young people. No, my experience involved a small language school in the center of Madrid, weekend adventures around Europe and, of course, friendly Spanish faces.

My program at Tandem, Madrid kept me on my toes with classes taught completely in Spanish. Apart from an intensive language course each day, we could also choose from a variety of cultural classes, such as Art and Architecture and Spanish Film. Through my Art and Architecture class, I enjoyed taking walks with colleagues through old and new sections of the city, exploring the architecture we were studying in person.

Excursions around Europe during my study abroad semester allowed me to experience culture outside of the classroom. I learned how to travel independently, despite limited language knowledge, travel frugally by staying in hostels and going by train, and travel thoroughly by experiencing destination cities by foot and immersing myself in the culture.

But at the end of the day, my favorite part about studying abroad was the people I met there. Antonio was the doorman of my apartment building. When not "dancing with the mop," he could be found sitting at the front desk, building a wooden cage for his birds. He would inevitably stop me to pull out a picture of the biggest fish he ever caught, proudly pointing out how large it was. And then there was Jaime, my language exchange partner. We didn't just get together to help each other with our pronunciation. Jaime gave me a real-life language learning experience when he took me car shopping one afternoon. Then there were of course my fellow students at Tandem. Since many of them didn't speak English well, we could only communicate effectively by practicing our Spanish together. I learned how to properly drink beer from a German dentist and how to have fun doing just about anything with friends in the city from a skinny French student. But most of all, I learned how to be confident in speaking the language that will always have my heart: Spanish.

All Rail Roads Lead to Madrid

By Jamie Smith
In Spain, all roads lead to Madrid. Well, at least all the major rail lines do. If you plan to be in Madrid for several days, consider taking advantage of its centrality and plan a day trip to one of Spain’s other beautiful cities. Several cities, including Barcelona and Seville, are served by a high-speed train which cuts travel time nearly in half. Moreover, even the trains which aren’t technically high-speed run at an accelerated rate because they travel on the same super efficient rails.

It’s easy to get to Madrid’s train stations, as all are served by the Metro system. You can buy your tickets at the train station and several dealers throughout the city, though it’s most convenient to purchase them online and print them yourself. You can not only see timetables and maps in English, but purchase tickets through an English language interface as well.

One final tip: there are often great last minute deals, but unfortunately that portion of the site is only in Spanish. Seats can be discounted by as much as 50% in the last 24 hours before the trip, so be sure to check there if you’re traveling on a whim.

For more of Jamie's adventures, follow her blog, Shame on Seamus.

More Madrid: On Foot

By Jamie Smith

Madrid has one of the best subway systems in the world, but the best way to explore the city is on foot. With so many cultural attractions, stores, restaurants, and people packed into such a small space, you’re sure to find fun just strolling.

The following is an itinerary that provides structure and suggestions for a day of walking in Madrid, but also allows plenty of freedom for wandering. After reading this post, check out the accompanying Google map for exact addresses and directions.

1. This itinerary starts at the Gran Vía Metro station, the Gran Vía being the main boulevard that runs through the heart of Madrid. On this street and the streets branching from it you’ll find some of Spain’s trendiest shops, including Zara, Mango, and Sfera. Most start business around 10 am, so sleep in or enjoy a traditional Spanish breakfast of churros and hot chocolate while you wait for the stores to open.

2. Once you’ve cruised the Gran Vía, head over to the Royal Palace of Madrid, the official residence of the King of Spain. The Royal Family doesn’t actually live in the palace, but it’s still used for official functions and remains a museum of Spain’s regal history.

3. After touring the palace and surveying the expansive gardens, head south to the Plaza Mayor. Madrid (and all Spanish cities) are lousy with plazas, but the Plaza Mayor is one of the most interesting visually. Dating back to the height of the Hapsburg dynasty, this square has been used for everything from bullfights to autos de fe during the Spanish Inquisition.

4. If it’s Sunday between 7 am and 2:30 pm, your next stop should be the El Rastro flea market just down the street from the Plaza Mayor. Billed as Europe’s largest flea market, you can find souvenirs, crafts, and clothing, both new and old. There is no exact address so follow the crowds to find the goods, but keep a hand on your bag. Pickpockets often target visitors to the market.

5. Whether coming from El Rastro or Plaza Mayor, the next stop is the Puerta del Sol. Take some time to look around the shops, restaurants, and homes on the meandering streets that lead you to the city’s largest plaza. Puerta del Sol originally was one of the gates (puertas) in the wall that guarded the city in the 15th century. Unfortunately construction on a new metro stop has been going on in the center of the plaza for several years, but you can still get a sense of its grandeur. Puerta del Sol is the place where Madrileños often meet up to begin a night out. While you watch other groups connect or perhaps wait for a group of your own, head over to the giant clock tower to see Kilometre Zero, the point that delineates east, west, north, and south for Madrid.

6. While you’re in Puerta del Sol, be sure to also pop in to El Corte Ingles, the biggest department store in Spain. Unlike department stores in America, El Corte Ingles really does sell everything, from groceries to books to travel packages. They also sell contemporary Spanish fans that make great gifts for friends at home.

7. If you’ve been shopping and stopping to look at things that interest you as you move from point to point, it’s probably getting into the evening and time for dinner. Spaniards usually eat dinner around 8 or 9 pm and go out afterwards, even on weeknights, and you should do the same. From the Puerta del Sol, head southeast to La Latina, one of several neighborhood’s in the city where you’ll find a thriving nightlife. Spaniards usually move from place to place—drinks or an aperitif in one bar, tapas in another, and so on through a neighborhood and into the evening. There will be plenty to eat and drink in La Latina, so relajate and don’t worry about staying up too late. Nothing opens until 10 tomorrow anyway.

City of the Week: Madrid, Spain

By Jamie Smith
While Madrid is the center of an extremely diverse country, it would be something of a misnomer to call it a melting pot. Those who have live in the capital often don’t blend in to the city but rather retain their fierce regional pride and provincial perspective, even if their family has been Madrileños for generations. In a country where no one hesitates to tell you what they really think, striking up a conversation in Madrid is one of the best ways to encounter a variety of Spanish perspectives.

And there’s no better place to talk to the locals than in a bar or restaurant (in Madrid, it’s often impossible to tell the difference between the two!). Spaniards tend to spend significant portions of their evenings at the corner bar socializing with their neighbors and whoever else is hanging out. Eating, drinking, and arguing are nothing less than national pastimes. But don’t be intimidated by the passion with which they discuss politics or soccer—most people are very sociable and open to being approached.

While you’re enjoying a cerveza and some conversation, impress your new friends by ordering some of these traditional dishes from Madrid.

Cocido madrileño: A hearty stew of chickpeas and root vegetables, beef, marrow, bacon, blood sausage, and chorizo.

Sope de ajo: A simple soup of garlic, bread, oil, and paprika. It may not sound like much, but in the hands of the right cook, it’s divine.

Manchego: A semi-soft sheep’s milk cheese with a distinctive, salty taste. Usually served with bread and cured meats.

Callos: Those with a weak stomach might be hesitant to try this dish, the main ingredient of which is stomach, or tripe. Give it a chance, however, as the tripe is simmered in a delicious tomato-based sauce with chorizo and ham.

To read more of Jamie's adventures, check out her blog, Shame on Seamus. Be sure to join us on Wednesday as Jamie takes us on a tour of Madrid's historic center.