Italy's Diamond: Sardinia

I’ve lived in Italy for over three years now, spending my vacations and extended weekends sailing the turquoise shores of Sardinia and cruising inland through its cavernous towns of limestone and granite. And, while I’ve not only explored the island’s treasures TEXAS- style, cruising in my Jeep Liberty from coastline to cross-country, I’ve also truly “felt, smelt, and tasted the real Sardinia.” Unfortunately, this month, National Geographic Traveler featured Sardinia’s “Carefee” Coast, with an author claiming that he bypassed the island’s northern shores of high-profile celebrities, yachts, and resorts, to pursue the western coast and inland towns of locals, shepherds and monks. But, having actually pursued the enchanting island myself, I found that the author never actually left the touristy north at all. So, why not follow me instead, for a real tour of the countryside where sheep really roam the land producing one of Italy’s finest cheese – Percorino Sardo! I’d also like to take you on a few of my many marked adventures, where we’ll actually find some of the “real Sards.”

Sardinia is divided into eight provinces, including its’ capital, Cagliari. Each province offers its own unique adventure, with most visitors kicking off their trip at the port – Golfo di Olbia.

The Province of Olbia-Tempio (OT) and Sassari (SS) include Costa Smeralda, Isola Maddalena (Parco Nazionale dell’ Arcipelago di La Maddalena), Isola Caprera, Costa Paradiso, Santa Teresa Gallura, Stintino and Alghero.

Travelling north, you’ll notice signs and displays with names like Baja Sardinia, Cannigione, Arazachena, Castelsardo and Porto Torres. Each name represents a tiny town, village, beach resort, or a port all intertwined with sharing a part of the coast. The most recognized name will be Porto Cervo, which is synonymous with Costa Smeralda. Yes, this is where the rich and famous “are seen and like to be seen” by paparazzi who make millions hanging out under the sun and doing “their job.” If you’re lucky, you might even see Italy’s Prime Minister, Silvio Berlusconi. But don’t be afraid to venture out and off the windy road instead! Note: Make sure that at all times, you have a swimsuit handy just in case you feel the deep desire to take in the sun or cool off by jumping right in.

From a distance, you’ll also notice tiny islands that make up the Maddalena Archipelago. La Maddalena is an island that deserves an entire day or two to see and experience. Along with its natural, untouched beauty and its cluster of tiny islands such as Spargi and Budelli, you’ll find the historical aspect of the island interesting. Whether it’s visiting revolutionary Guiseppe Garibaldi’s tombstone on Isola Caprera or spending time walking through one of Garibaldi’s forts, you’ll feel like a “Hero of Two Worlds” when you imagine life on the fort. If nothing else, you’ll enjoy the National Park which is a safe haven for wildlife.

Upon returning to the mainland, continue your adventure. While the island offers many accommodation choices (hotels, hostels, family run establishments, etc), our favorite accommodations are agriturismos. An agriturismo is a farmhouse that turns into a tourist destination for “farm stays” at a budget-friendly price, without sacrificing quality. This is the best way to truly experience the island since everything you eat is grown on or around the farm. And, it’s where Sardinia’s local cuisine is at its finest, as it includes eating porceddu allo spiedo or piglet-on-a-spit. Yes, baby piglet! Don’t worry, Winnie the Pooh won’t blame you for enjoying Sardinian roast sucking piglet. Make sure to compliment the meal with a glass of Cannonau di Sardinida, a very strong red wine made of Cannonau grapes.

After your dinner break, rest up and continue your adventure. Often times you’ll find yourself experiencing the calming island on your own until an adventurous surprise appears, luring you to explore the next hidden limestone cove or bright sandy village. Or—as was the case with my husband and me—a naked man dashes out of nowhere, not only enjoying his own little piece of island, but enjoying the nonchalance of his vulnerable state; at one point my husband and I felt like we were the weird ones for not abandoning our clothes in these parts and claiming our own piece of Sardinia.

Trekking on, you’ll reach one of the wildest places in Sardinia, Capo Caccia. Near the city of Alghero, it’s an ideal place for sports enthusiasts or anyone who enjoys cliff-hangers. Discovered in 1700, Capo Caccia is an underground cave and includes the famous Grotta di Nettuno (2500 m long), which can be reached by sea or foot climbing 656 steps, the Escala del Cabirol. Yes, the 656 steps will leave you breathless, not because of its ambitious climb, but rather because of the stunning view on its horizon! If you muster up the strength to reach the cave you’ll find a natural reserve that stretches three thousand hectares of stalagmites and stalactites. Plus, it includes rare, unique plants that cannot be seen anywhere else in the world, like the Paeonia of Gennargentu.