Roman Holiday with Audrey Hepburn and Araceli

Over the holidays, I went to a beautiful photo exhibit dedicated to the one and only Audrey Hepburn. I didn’t realize that Audrey spent so much time in Rome throughout her career. Her photo display gave me the chance to truly appreciate and admire both her professional and personal life. Especially her goodwill efforts with UNICEF! Love one of her quotes, “For some trips all you need is one piece of luggage. Your heart.” Brava Audrey for continuing to inspire women today from all over the world with your style, grace and talent!

Rome Today Visits Largest Olive Tree in Europe: L’ulive più grande d’Europa

Olive harvest 2011 was a healthy success! Thanks to our friends from La Tartaruga Sabina, the villa and estate of the Micheletta family, Rome Today learned about the thorough process of turning olives into oil for a year-long supply of extra virgin olive oil. Luckily, their amazing OSCO olive oil will soon be available on store shelves in the United States, with New York as its first stop. In our upcoming video (log on to Rome Today), we’ll learn more about the beautiful region of Sabina and its most prized possession – Sabina DOP extra virgin olive oil!

Along the tour, we took a quick detour and drove up to the oldest and largest olive oil tree of in all of Europe. To our surprise, we discovered the tree stands on private property and the lovely owner – Ottavio Bertini – stepped out to greet us. We couldn’t resist and quickly asked him to give us a quick interview on the history of how this amazing tree has managed to weather the storm all these years. Like everything else, it’s a miracle when you consider that its trunk measures 7 meters in diameter and it’s been certified to be over 2,400 years in age! Luckily, this olive tree is protected by the European Union for years to come.

After seeing this tree, it’s easy to understand why this region produces golden olive oil in surplus.

Araceli Speaks Out about Occupy Rome Protests Turned Riots

As for the Rome riots this weekend, what can I say. I’m horribly disappointed. I’ll be the first to admit that I didn’t recognize my own city. My heart sank watching the news coverage of the riots. All I could see were groups of masked and hooded thugs destroying the city I call home and have grown to love just as much as my own country. Like any city, Rome has its own problems but nothing justifies what we witnessed this Saturday. Nothing justifies attacks on police, smashing windows, setting vehicles on fire and throwing up barricades. I pray they round up those thugs…and throw away the key!

I took a few pictures on Monday driving into work but nothing compares to the real damage they caused that was closed off for clean up. What happened on Saturday is NOT Rome! It’s the action of a few demonstrators that infiltrated a peaceful protest causing terror and havoc with no clear message. The results surprised us all. Occupy Wall Street...Occupy Rome...Occupy whatever capital city you want, but don’t destroy it!

Sagra dell’Uva (Grape Festival) in Marino

October is by far the best time to visit Rome. Temperatures are slightly cooler and grape season is in full swing. Wine is overflowing everywhere and bunches of fresh picked grapes are ready to be eaten. Especially in the medieval town of Marino where the “Sagra dell’Uva” attracted hundreds to drink up last year’s reserve to make room for this year’s vino novello. Since 1925, the town of Marino (south of Rome) has graciously shared with locals their abundant source of produce and wine by handing out over 150 tonnes of grapes and providing 3,000 litres of local white wine during their four-day festival. The highlight of the event is when they turn the water from the city’s main fountain into sparkling white wine giving visitors a taste of Marino’s famous wine.

The grape festival, which is one of the oldest in Italy, commemorates the return of Admiral Marcantonio Colonna to his home in Marino after his victory over the Turks at the Battle of Lepanto in October 1571. The sagra is celebrated during the month of October to give thanks for the safe return of more than 250 sailors sent to battle.

After all these years, Romans continue to show their appreciation for this victory and long-standing tradition by visiting Marino’s annual wine and grape festival.

Araceli in Istanbul: Giolitti's Gelato

100 Places Every Woman Should Go in Italy

Araceli Cardenas-Bon

A Thousand Memories

When I take a photo abroad, I like to think about how—while a picture may be worth a thousand words—it will be worth so much more after my return to the states. Araceli’s photos of Rome’s winter wonderland makes me think of my own Italian photos and I begin to reminisce; many of them often remark on other memories not present in the photo, and soon, it feels like I’m peeling off layers of an onion, until I’m at its core.

The unassuming photo above (left), for example, conjures so many more romantic and yet frustrating memories of Italy, other than just the obvious gondoliers before work: the smell of an Italian cigarette on a cool, damp Venetian morning. The taste of fresh orange juice—spremuta—in one of those thick but tall and skinny Italian glasses. Mmmmm…a cornetto’s crispy corners folding in, revealing a sliver of perfectly melted nutella.

If I look at the photo long enough, I begin to remember more than just breakfast. The weather, the news, perhaps July—the time of year I hate Venice the most because the marshlands feel more like swamplands and the tourists feel more like terrorists. And, my favorite memory of Venice: the first time I stupidly realized that everything taken in or out of its islands and inlets is transferred by boat. Instead of garbage trucks, there are trash boats, instead of grocery trucks there are grocery boats—for some reason it’s just as fascinating to see tomatoes and carrots piled too high on a tiny boat as it is to see Michelangelo’s ceiling—and my favorite, a DHL boat. It’s a cross between a gondola and a vaporetto, a faster Italian boat, and also reminds me that people need their mail, and, even in Italy, people get to live here for more than just a year or two, and carry on their lives, like I am carrying on mine in a different part of the world and on the other side of the picture.

Maybe you should take a look at some of your own old photos and see what memories they inspire.

What Do You Take Home From Your Travels?

Below: me in Santa Margherita Ligure in a scarf I got in Rome, a hat I got in Chicago, sitting in Villa Durazzo, a 16th-century castle, in a 17th-century park.


The detriment of travel is trying to figure out how to take home the experience with you. Instead of savoring the journey, you often waste time locating the finest wine, coffee, stamps, antiques, perhaps even some cheese—-despite the fact that you may have to learn how to say silly things like “air-tight seal,” or “put a cork in it,” in another language. Over the excruciating years of tearing myself away from a destination, I’ve found my favorite accoutrements to purchase are the ones that will stay with me forever: boots, shoes, a scarf, a jacket, a sweater.

Purchasing clothing goods may seem like an obvious choice for a traveling gal, so I’d like to state—-for the record—-that I do not own name brands, nor do I have a stash of Louis Vuitton and Prada handbags. My purpose for purchasing clothing goods has more to do with being a hopeless romantic and desperately yearning for a specific time and place. Simply smelling the fabric of a wool sweater from a foreign outdoor market recalls quite a few memories and brings about many questions other than the destination: who was I when I bought this? Was I happy Desiree or sad Desiree that day? What happened that year and was that the month that changed my life, or was I just having the time of my life?

Mostly, I find myself defining character moments in these clothes. It is October in Chicago and last night, just before going out, I found a brown sweater jacket with loosely-knit fabric. I threw it on and while warm in its somewhat itchy fur, I thought about December in Torino and the street I’d picked it up from, Via Roma. It was dark, cold and wet, just like last night in Chicago. Although a year later and an ocean over, one very important thing came to mind: last year I began struggling back and forth about a very difficult life decision I had to make. I remember, that despite my umbrella, walking through the cobble-stoned alleyways of Torino left my gray boots and tired feet soaking wet. Yet, while frustrated that I had to continue sloshing through the city for another couple hours before I could return to the hotel and change, I remember being even more frustrated about this decision I could not make.

Almost one year has passed and last month, I finally made that decision. It is difficult. I’m subjected to terrible advice from loving friends and family, like, change is the only constant. Think positively and positive things will happen. When life gives you lemons, make lemonade, blah, blah, blah. Often, this advice is not fitting, and I sometimes respond to them with, “Boo” or “Poo.”

But it is fitting, that in another time, in another destination, the weather is the same, and the old Desiree meets the new Desiree, and all because a sweater coat still fits. I get to think about happier things: that trip was the trip I learned about Bicerin, an 18th-century espresso made with chocolate and milk. And it was one of the first times I thought about Gal about the Globe. I visited the Olympic Alps of Piemonte and learned that to make polenta perfectly, you have to stir it slowly for an hour; I learned that polenta and sausage is awesome while dining at Eataly, an amazing food emporium endorsed by Slow Food. I also learned never to buy disposable cameras from airports, and also, I learned that you can find imitation Ugg boots so that when they get soaking wet you don’t feel guilty about throwing away $100.

I still do not like flying. I still do not like flying.

Italy's Diamond: Sardinia

I’ve lived in Italy for over three years now, spending my vacations and extended weekends sailing the turquoise shores of Sardinia and cruising inland through its cavernous towns of limestone and granite. And, while I’ve not only explored the island’s treasures TEXAS- style, cruising in my Jeep Liberty from coastline to cross-country, I’ve also truly “felt, smelt, and tasted the real Sardinia.” Unfortunately, this month, National Geographic Traveler featured Sardinia’s “Carefee” Coast, with an author claiming that he bypassed the island’s northern shores of high-profile celebrities, yachts, and resorts, to pursue the western coast and inland towns of locals, shepherds and monks. But, having actually pursued the enchanting island myself, I found that the author never actually left the touristy north at all. So, why not follow me instead, for a real tour of the countryside where sheep really roam the land producing one of Italy’s finest cheese – Percorino Sardo! I’d also like to take you on a few of my many marked adventures, where we’ll actually find some of the “real Sards.”

Sardinia is divided into eight provinces, including its’ capital, Cagliari. Each province offers its own unique adventure, with most visitors kicking off their trip at the port – Golfo di Olbia.

The Province of Olbia-Tempio (OT) and Sassari (SS) include Costa Smeralda, Isola Maddalena (Parco Nazionale dell’ Arcipelago di La Maddalena), Isola Caprera, Costa Paradiso, Santa Teresa Gallura, Stintino and Alghero.

Travelling north, you’ll notice signs and displays with names like Baja Sardinia, Cannigione, Arazachena, Castelsardo and Porto Torres. Each name represents a tiny town, village, beach resort, or a port all intertwined with sharing a part of the coast. The most recognized name will be Porto Cervo, which is synonymous with Costa Smeralda. Yes, this is where the rich and famous “are seen and like to be seen” by paparazzi who make millions hanging out under the sun and doing “their job.” If you’re lucky, you might even see Italy’s Prime Minister, Silvio Berlusconi. But don’t be afraid to venture out and off the windy road instead! Note: Make sure that at all times, you have a swimsuit handy just in case you feel the deep desire to take in the sun or cool off by jumping right in.

From a distance, you’ll also notice tiny islands that make up the Maddalena Archipelago. La Maddalena is an island that deserves an entire day or two to see and experience. Along with its natural, untouched beauty and its cluster of tiny islands such as Spargi and Budelli, you’ll find the historical aspect of the island interesting. Whether it’s visiting revolutionary Guiseppe Garibaldi’s tombstone on Isola Caprera or spending time walking through one of Garibaldi’s forts, you’ll feel like a “Hero of Two Worlds” when you imagine life on the fort. If nothing else, you’ll enjoy the National Park which is a safe haven for wildlife.

Upon returning to the mainland, continue your adventure. While the island offers many accommodation choices (hotels, hostels, family run establishments, etc), our favorite accommodations are agriturismos. An agriturismo is a farmhouse that turns into a tourist destination for “farm stays” at a budget-friendly price, without sacrificing quality. This is the best way to truly experience the island since everything you eat is grown on or around the farm. And, it’s where Sardinia’s local cuisine is at its finest, as it includes eating porceddu allo spiedo or piglet-on-a-spit. Yes, baby piglet! Don’t worry, Winnie the Pooh won’t blame you for enjoying Sardinian roast sucking piglet. Make sure to compliment the meal with a glass of Cannonau di Sardinida, a very strong red wine made of Cannonau grapes.

After your dinner break, rest up and continue your adventure. Often times you’ll find yourself experiencing the calming island on your own until an adventurous surprise appears, luring you to explore the next hidden limestone cove or bright sandy village. Or—as was the case with my husband and me—a naked man dashes out of nowhere, not only enjoying his own little piece of island, but enjoying the nonchalance of his vulnerable state; at one point my husband and I felt like we were the weird ones for not abandoning our clothes in these parts and claiming our own piece of Sardinia.

Trekking on, you’ll reach one of the wildest places in Sardinia, Capo Caccia. Near the city of Alghero, it’s an ideal place for sports enthusiasts or anyone who enjoys cliff-hangers. Discovered in 1700, Capo Caccia is an underground cave and includes the famous Grotta di Nettuno (2500 m long), which can be reached by sea or foot climbing 656 steps, the Escala del Cabirol. Yes, the 656 steps will leave you breathless, not because of its ambitious climb, but rather because of the stunning view on its horizon! If you muster up the strength to reach the cave you’ll find a natural reserve that stretches three thousand hectares of stalagmites and stalactites. Plus, it includes rare, unique plants that cannot be seen anywhere else in the world, like the Paeonia of Gennargentu.

More City of the Week: Your Turin Itinerary

Your perfect Turin itinerary includes spending your morning in the Museo Egizio and Museo Nazionale del Cinema. At lunch, enjoy Piedmontese cuisine at a family-run trattoria, and then venture back out to get a glimpse of the Shroud of Turin in the Duomo di San Giovanni Battista. Finish your first day of sight-seeing with the Galleria Sabauda (same palazzo as Museo Egizio), where the dukes and kings of Italy’s famous Savoy family feature 14th to 19th century art work from Piedmontese, Italian and Flemish painters.

The Museo Egizio is considered to have the best collection of ancient Egyptian art and artifacts outside of Cairo [and arguably London], dating to 1400 BC, a collection initially acquired by the Savoys. Expect pharaohs, tombs and relics, the perfect artifacts of not only a culture, but of a film or movie set; perhaps a great precursor to the Museo Nazionale del Cinema. While the Mole Antonelliana has housed the Museo Nazionale del Cinema since only 2000, you’ll find history of Italian and American cinema, and art, with rooms resembling a theme, love, horror, death, etc. The props purchased from films like Aliens and Star Wars are amusing, as is the Marilyn Monroe memorabilia, movie posters and some of the first technology used to record and edit motion pictures. Don’t forget to take a ride in the elevator to the top of the dome for views of the city, Po and Alps. The building was originally constructed to be a synagogue, so you’ll find the architecture unique (however, many Italians refer to it as appalling too, think Eiffel Tower).

Tired and hungry yet? Since it’s time for lunch, stroll over to the Quadrilatero Romano where Diciottobi in Piazza Castello serves an affordable Italian brunch until 3PM, or head to the popular Neopolitan-style Pizzeria, Fratelli La Cozza on Via Cesare Battisti 13. Afterward, you must stop in one of the city’s historical baroque coffee shops. As the origination of the chocolate bar is attributed to the Piedmont region, the coffee shops in Turin combine chocolate and milk cream (and of course coffee) to make Bicerin. I adore the coffee shop, al Bicerin, on Piazza della Consolata 5. The coffee house opened in 1763 as a citron-water and confectionary shop and its’ marble tables, bar, wooden paneling and cast-iron detailing takes me on a time-machine to a romantic Italian movie (perhaps featured at the Mole Antonelliana also, no?).

Touring after your long lunch includes the Galleria Sabauda, where Botticelli, Rembrandts and portraits of the Savoy family complete your art history lesson. As for religion, well, you can head to Duomo di San Giovanni Battista. Built between the 14th to 15th century and said to be Turin’s only example of Renaissance architecture, the cathedral holds the Shroud of Turin. However, you only get to see the copy of it, hanging in front of the altar. The real shroud is only displayed every 25 years, so come back in 2025 for the viewing, okay?

And now it’s off to your hotel, for a shower and change of clothes before starting your Italian evening. Consider starting your stroll at one of the excellent wine bars and finish with a dinner at Ristorante Tre Galline on Via Bellezia 37. I loved the polenta—a dish typical to this region—and recommend trying the risotto and veal!
See you on Friday as we take a day trip to Piedmont’s alpine region, including the slopes of the 2006 Winter Olympics. Ooooh! And why not enjoy a quick stop at the Martini factory? Just make sure someone else is driving.

City of the Week: Turin, Italy

Italy again? If you’re wondering why we’re featuring another Italian city, the answer is simple: In the business of international tourism, summer means busy season, with Italy typically the number one preferred destination by most traveling through Europe. However, as these times remain desperate, we’re delighted to feature Turin, an Italian city that offers a lower price point along with an energy and history to match Florence, Rome or Milan.

Turin is located in the northwestern province of Italy in Piedmont, perfect for discovering the Alps or the Ligurian Sea. Bypass Turin’s industrious reputation (it’s sometimes called the Detroit of Italy) and you’ll find beauty, art, architecture, and historical cuisine! Since the 2006 Winter Olympics, the city’s worked hard to improve its urban areas, transforming factories into cultural venues and closing off streets to build larger piazze, while combining art-noveau columned entry ways with sidewalks unfolding to restaurants and wine bars.

During your visit, you’ll trek through Il Centro, the Quadrilatero Romano, Piazza Castello to the Po River, which runs through the city, region, and country. South of the Po, the Quadrilatero Romano features narrower alleyways of wineries, outdoor restaurants and historic cafes, as well as Via Roma and the city’s new train station, Torino Porta Nuova. Piazza Castello to the Po includes Piazza Vittoria Veneto with the famous building Mole Antonelliana (you’ll recognize its dome as the city’s major landmark), housing the National Museum of Cinema. Lingotto, sitting just south of San Salvario surrounds the former FIAT factory. However, it’s near the famous Slow Food endorsed Eataly, the self-proclaimed largest food and wine center in the world.

Hungry for more? Join us on Wednesday and Friday as we visit famous and noteworthy museums like the Museo Egizio, the largest Egyptian Museum outside of Cairo. We’ll also visit the Shroud of Turin and take a look at the region’s tasteful delights, polenta and bicerin.

Global Race for the Cure

Araceli recently ran Susan G. Komen’s Race for the Cure in Rome, Italy just as she had many times before in the states. When asked what the difference between the two races was, she responded with, “It [breast cancer] is an issue that affects women all over the world and seeing it in Italy reaffirms the fact that no woman is exempt. You realize that much more just how important it is to find a cure… The turnout was amazing.”

And, according to a Susan G. Komen spokesperson Araceli caught up with, the organization is expanding to other countries as well, while implementing a name change. The new “Global Race for the Cure,” which commemorated the 20th Anniversary of the organization’s race, debuted on June 6, 2009 in Washington D.C. With more than 45,000 participants hitting the capital’s streets, the race raised $4.3 million to “fund breast cancer programs for the medically under served throughout the National Capital Area and abroad.” The race featured breast cancer survivors from more than 18 countries, with support from notable speakers, including Dr. Jill Biden, an advocate for breast education and health.

I had the fortunate opportunity to volunteer at a race in my hometown a few years ago. For those of you who’d like to attend a race, volunteer, or make a donation, consult the 2009 Calendar of locations. For more information, visit the organization's website.

What to Expect: Rome

Before dedicating this Friday topic to our usual restaurant tips, we thought we’d offer up the titillating truth about Rome first, so you’re not surprised. After all, if ever a gal was to have a dangerous love-hate relationship with a city, it would be with Roma.

The traffic in Rome literally stinks with overpopulated, exhaust -intensive buses and vespas zipping through winding rows of jam-packed cars, regardless of traffic violations or pedestrians. And heaven forbid you get sick at 1:00 PM, because the farmacia does not re-open until 3:00 PM. You can also forget about processing paperwork, be it your Visa, passport, plane ticket, or perhaps even a receipt from McDonald’s (yes, we already know Americans shamelessly love to visit McDonald’s during their ten tiny days abroad).

“Working just enough so someone notices you working at all” should be the motto, not "When in Rome," as the polizia proudly directs traffic with their right hand and smokes a cigarette with their left.

Additionally, in various parts of Italy, and especially in Rome, you mostly get Italian food, so don’t expect to find burger joints, the Outback Steakhouse or Vietnamese restaurants on every corner. Fortunately, today there's more “stranieri” restaurants popping up, so we'd like to recommend a few. If you’re in the mood for Asian, we like, Ci Lin (Ponte dell’olio 6, around the corner from Santa Maria in Trastevere). For Mexican, head to Cantina Mexicana (La Charreada, Piazza dei Quiriti 4), for Indian, try Surya Mahal (Via di Ponte Sisto 67). And, while you can go just about anywhere to find excellent Italian cuisine, for dinner, we love Taverna Trilussa in Piazza Trilussa (Via del Politeama 23; try the ravioli mimosa).

Keep in mind that like the farmacia, and chaotic traffic, finding food in Italy is difficult during certain times of the day (dinner typically begins at 8:30 PM or 9:00 PM). But, if you can get over the inconveniences of the chaotic city, then I promise you’ll find yourself having the most fabulous affair with Roma.

Rome on Foot

The Italians call it, piedi a piedi, literally meaning foot-by-foot. To begin your piedi a piedi, consider romancing the city where the Tiber River meets the Vatican. First, head to the Vatican Museums, Raphael Room, and Geographical Maps Gallery, finishing your tour with a bang at the Sistine Chapel. Next, stroll over to St. Peter’s Basilica, where you’ll find Michelangelo’s Pieta. Your stroll through the basilica will take you to Bernini’s Baldecchino della Confessione –where Peter’s bones supposedly rest below. And, for spectacular views of the city you can take the 300-some stairs to the top of St. Peter’s Basilica, known as Michelangelo’s dome (don’t worry, there’s also an elevator for grandma).

Next, you can choose to check out Castel Sant’Angelo or head south into the neighborhood of Trastevere, where Santa Maria in Trastevere lies, enjoying lunch at Il Vicolo or Toni’s on Vicolo Del Cinque afterward. Snobby locals tend to regard Trastevere as the real neighborhood of the Romans, so expect to use your Italian phrasebook a bit more in this area. Afterward, cross the Tiber River at the Ponte Sisto, into Campo de’ Fiori. Note: every weekday morning until 1:00 PM there’s a great outdoor market here, with fresh fish, vegetables, as well as household goods, clothing, purses, etc…

From Campo de’Fiori, you can cross Vittorio Emanuele, and head into Piazza Navona for views of Bernini’s famous baroque fountains. Expect street performers! From here, you can head east onto Via del Corso, where Piazza Venezia, the Colosseum, and the Roman Forum lie (Capitoline Hill), or head west to check out the Pantheon. Either way, Via del Corso runs in between both routes, so afterward, head north on Via del Corso to hit the Trevi Fountain, Piazza de Spagna, and Via dei Condotti.

See you on Friday for more tips for your Roman holiday!

City of the Week: Rome, Italy

Since our very own Araceli Cardenas-Bon scooped the Angels and Demons Premiere in Rome earlier this month, we thought it appropriate to make Rome our next city of the week. For those of you entranced with the Dan Brown movie, or planning a vacation to the eternal city, you’ll need a generic history lesson first.

The capital of Italy and home to the smallest country in the world (the Vatican), Rome holds one of the most unique historic centers, making the city an UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s over 2000 years old, with Greek, Etruscan, and Gaul origins, and once governed the Middle East and Northern Africa during its’ “Empire” status. Rome also lived through “paganism,” which was brutally killed off in the Middle Ages, only to be seized by Christianity and eventually an aristocratic papacy—leaving behind the beautiful Pantheon. Additionally, due to its’ southern location in Europe and the Mediterranean, its art, architecture and culture survived World War II (and a fascist Mussolini). Therefore, cobblestoned streets still unfold to brilliant piazzas holding extravagant churches constructed during the Renaissance period, as well as Baroque masterpieces crafted by geniuses such as Bernini, Caravaggio and Michelangelo.

Modernly, tourists head to the capital to re-live Rome’s history; however, the city’s selling points are art, architecture and by far, cuisine. Of course, if you can afford high-fashion retailers like Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Prada, then you can head to Via del Corso or Piazza de Spagna for shopping too.

Join us on Wednesday, for a step-by-step guide to touring the historic center!